The small settlement of Koguchi is tucked into a quiet river valley along the Kumano Kodo route over the Kii Mountains between Hongu and Nachi, making it a prime location for pilgrims, worshippers and locals to gather, sharing stories, praying for their journey.
And now, visitors can take advantage of a unique and austere meditation in this sacred, quiet village.
Pilgrims Joe
At the western edge of Koguchi, upstream from the Akagi-gawa River, is the new pilgrim stay accommodation called “Pilgrims Joe.”
It sits at the base of an old stone staircase leading up to Seizo-ji Temple where guests of the guesthouse have the unique opportunity to participate in a short Zen meditation.
The owner of Pilgrims Joe, Mr. Miyahara, who goes by “John,” was born and raised in Tokyo and fell in love with Koguchi after walking the Kumano Kodo. He had also walked the Camino de Santiago in Spain, and draws from these experiences to connect with guests. He know offers this humble, comfortable guesthouse, and blogs about the Kumano Kodo in English and Japanese on his website.
As a pilgrim himself who has traveled, Miyahara said he wants to “welcome Kumano Kodo pilgrims with the understanding and warmth that only a fellow pilgrim can provide.”
Seizo-ji Temple
The temple, dating back roughly 300 years, is solemn and simple. The vista from its raised location overlooking the river valley can be stunning. And the sky from there at night is bright with stars.
Mr. Shirai is the priest who looks after Seizo-ji Temple. Originally from Nagoya, he operates the temple with his wife.
Their cat is in residence, but shy and hardly seen, although another neighborhood cat has been known to sit on the deck cushions and listen in!
Mr. Shirai said he was drawn from the big city to Koguchi 20 years ago when he first became a priest.
Pure Land Worship at Valley Junction
Koguchi has long been the respite for mountain ascetic worshipers on their way to Nachisan’s shrine-temple complex, and for fishermen, nature recreationists, and Kumano Kodo hikers in modern times.
“John” said the name of the guesthouse was inspired by the nearby temple. “Seizo-ji” in part means “pure” and refers to paying respects toward the Western Pure Land of Buddhism, a popular concept of the Kumano faith. So, the owner named his guesthouse “Joe” or “Jo” (浄), meaning “pure,” symbolizing a connection between modern pilgrims and those ancient souls who have walked the Kumano for a 1,000 years or more.
Zen Meditation Experience
Seizo-ji Temple offers a unique Zen Buddhist meditation, particularly for those interested who are staying at Pilgrims Joe just at the base of the stairs to the temple.
It is a “chair meditation” where guests can sit in folding chairs instead of kneeling on the tatami mats, making participation easier.
Before the start, guests receive green tea prepared by Mr. Shirai, and if the weather is fine, can enjoy it on the veranda.
A translation app guests can download onto their smartphones is suggested at the start to help them follow the priest’s directions.
However, directions are simple and generally easy to follow.
Join a local, exclusive, self-guided Kumano Kodo tour package that features a stay at Pilgrims Joe and the Zen meditation experience!
KUMANO KODO Exclusive Self-Guided Walk and Meditation Tour | Advanced | 7 days | Spring 2026
Soak in the solemnity and austerity of Koguchi!